Team Six:
Our team may be biased, but we believe that Day 8 was the best of our days here in India. The slums of Dharavi, an impromptu game of soccer on a sandy beach of the Arabian Sea, a waterlogged game of cricket, a hospitable lunch, and a tour of MET (one of the premier business schools in India), were just a few of the memories that will be added to the heap that we have accumulated thus far.
The day started out at our incredible hotel buffet; croissants, muffins, omelets, and hash browns were a familiar respite from our adventurous forays into the native cuisine of India. After drinking the last bits of watermelon juice and finishing the final nibbles of fruit, the group began to gather, fresh-faced and chattering, in the hotel lobby. As with most of the days on our trip, Dr. Carr began with a health check-up. Those who were on the mend discussed their recovery while we all worried a moment for those who were still in bed, unable to make the adventures for the day. With the conversation coming to a close, we charged into the bus, finding seats next to the familiar faces of our classmates.
The first stop for the day was the slums of Dharavi, made famous by the movie “Slumdog Millionaire.” The ingenuity of the slum dwellers was immediately evident upon arrival. As Professor Singh explained what we were seeing, several conclusions became palpable; perhaps the most shocking was that many of the individuals choose to live in the slums in order to save money and to maintain their freedom from the government. The slums are made up of both white collar workers and blue collar workers, many of them living in 12’X12’ rooms, making a decent living, and paying virtually nothing for utilities. The politicians find the slums rife with potential voters and choose to propagandize, rather than to bulldoze. Everywhere one looks there are giant posters for local politicians saying “we are on your side.” On one hand, it’s common to feel sorry for the those people living in such poor conditions; on the other, one learns that many people are living in the slums by choice (rather than in apartments), and are doing very well for themselves…this is definitely a country filled with dualities.
Upon leaving the slums, we toured the city a bit more and stopped by a beach on the Arabian Sea. By chance, we came across a group of teenagers playing soccer. In true Indian fashion, they readily agreed to a game with us. Although we only had fifteen minutes, many of us jumped at the opportunity to engage with the locals and we began a friendly, mixed game. Even though it was impossible to tell who your teammates were or what the score was, we had a great time. It’s those unplanned moments where we are immersed in the Indian culture that have made this trip so life-changing, memorable, and educational.
After taking a group picture and brushing the sand off, we piled back into the bus and headed for a large local retail outlet. In line with the tradition of Indian hospitality, the store opened early just for us to look around. We encountered many surprises, including narrow aisles and piles of unfamiliar products. We were also startled to see all of the produce sitting in the heat, unpacked and unrefrigerated. Apparently, the produce there has a very high turnover rate; furthermore, Indian shoppers will only buy produce if it is ungroomed and unwashed; this is rooted in the perception that no amount of commercial sanitation will live up to the rigorous hygienic standards of the common Indian kitchen. Many of us were also stunned to see a Garnier product designed to lighten a person’s skin. This has been popular with Indian women for some time, but it is now catching on for men as well. Apparently, lighter skin is a vain desire in India, similar to the Californian’s yearning for an unhealthy tan. We recognized several of the brands of snack food and soft drinks, but there were still many that looked unfamiliar. We were also introduced to a soda called “Thumbs Up,” a native cola drink. Coca Cola tried for years to beat Thumbs Up in the Indian market, but eventually resigned to defeat and acquired the company. Overall, the store appeared to be a bit untidy in its stocking of the shelves and bins, a concept that is actually an attempt to relate to the Indian consumer, rather than a result of poor management or cramped space. Trying to adjust the Indian market to modern retail requires a similarity to the street vendor style to which the locals are familiar.
After purchasing Pringles and chocolate, Coke and power bars, the tour of the retail outlet came to an end and we began the trip to MET, an “A++ B School”—or premier business school—in India. Earlier this year, we prepared to play Cricket against the students at MET, and today was our chance to show what we were made of. We ended up splitting up the different students into mixed teams so that one side (i.e. our side) didn’t get dominated too badly. The game went as expected, with the MET students doing quite well; we simply tried to remember to run in a straight line without throwing the bat. On the sidelines, Indian and American students mingled, sharing jokes and jeers at the other team. The Indians taught us a heckling phrase, meaning “catch the chicken,” while we taught them who Alex Rodriguez is. The game was going well until we switched sides and the fielding team came up to bat. At this point, the sky opened up and an infamous Mumbai monsoon began. If one has never experienced a monsoon, it is difficult to explain how it feels. It was basically like having someone with pitchers of water standing above you pouring constantly—very different from the gentle showers of the Central coast. Despite the downpour, we were not to be discouraged and continued with the game anyway. Unfortunately, soon thereafter the speaker for the day arrived and the game had to be discontinued. As the Indian students and American students washed the clay of the field off their clothes together, the Indian students admitted that they had never played cricket in the rain. Apparently, it was a day of firsts for us both.
After getting everyone changed into clean clothes, we were fed another excellent Indian meal. Sitting at round tables, there were at least two individuals standing around us, available for our every need. In fact, it wasn’t until the second or third time that extra bowls of our favorite dishes appeared at our table that we realized they were listening to our conversation and reacting to our likes and dislikes. Being treated like royalty was not something we expected when we came to India. Moreover, this incredible welcoming hospitality was one of the largest takeaways of the day: we will each ask ourselves how we can emulate this type of service in the United States when guests come to our school. We will also reflect on the shortcomings that Americans have in this respect.
Lunch ended and we sat down to listen to the speaker from the local retail outlet we visited earlier. He was very entertaining, and seemed to have a lot of interesting insights into the mind of the Indian consumer. Perhaps the most interesting thing he mentioned was the “butt brush factor,” which suggests that Americans won’t shop at places where their butts are brushed a certain number of times by people or objects (indicating a crowded store). Contrary to this western viewpoint, Indians appreciate a higher “butt brush factor,” as it indicates that the store is more popular—most likely because of better deals. He mentioned the early “failure” to recognize that Indians do not want to shop in a non-traditional Wal-Mart style retail outlet. The stores were changed to increase the “butt brush factor”, bins were overfilled, and the stores were given a feel of the traditional open air markets. As a result, the stores became a success and have grown tremendously. The presenter gave us a very upbeat opinion of the retail sector in India and shared his belief that his retail outlet is focused on promoting the category in an effort to succeed without stepping on other retailers. It is hard to believe that retail accounts for only four percent of India’s GDP. Like so much in India, there are tremendous opportunities to expand this category. This particular retailer gives us an excellent model of adapting a modern retail sector to the Indian culture.
We then listened to the Director General of the college speak about how the curriculum for MET had been designed and what the students were doing abroad. He discussed the foreign programs MET has, in particular the programs in China and the ECOSOC Council with the UN in the U.S. He discussed the requirements of each student to volunteer with underprivileged individuals in the community. We thought it was interesting that when asked about teaching ethics, the director replied that this was typically the job of a student’s parents. Also, rather than developing a course about ethics, it is expected that the student will live an ethical life by giving back to the community. The director also briefly outlined his history in the agriculture business before his tenure with MET. He mentioned the long presence of the Indian entrepreneurial spirit, which we have seen many times over the past days. Lastly, before leaving, we had a tour of the college and got to see the students in a more natural environment. The facilities were vastly different from what we have come to enjoy at Cal Poly. Each floor of the multi story building was home to a separate portion of the school. Throughout the building, the students had many rooms dedicated to rest, study, and entertainment, including a game room and a music listening room. While on the tour, we had a chance to discuss some of the finer aspects of the education with administrators. It was refreshing to see the familiar “learn by doing” atmosphere where students were provided real life problems to solve. It also posed the question of whether providing environments for fun and socializing, like our own Resource Center, aid in the educational process, or are superfluous.
On the trip back to the hotel, Kamal and Riddhi talked to us about how much they were going to miss our group and how much they have learned about Americans that were contrary to the commonly accepted stereotypes, such as being quiet and uninviting. They were happy to say that this is by no stretch of the imagination a description of our group. Finally, they invited us to share the microphone around the bus and give them a comment, good or bad. I was taken aback by this request; it is rare that an American asks for feedback among a group of peers. We were happy to share our adoration of the two ambassadors, and not a single person had something negative to say. Moreover, it was very refreshing to have that openly reflective period with our group and with two of our Indian peers in the middle of our trip. We closed with a song dedicated to our local guides and an evening to ourselves.
Getting to know two Indian students made India become a real place: full of heart and bursting with spirit. By this point, I believe many of us had fallen in love with India, more so than we ever thought we would. With its zooming rickshaws, dirty sidewalks, colorful dress, and foiled lifestyle, India has carved a place into our hearts through two incredible individuals, one hospitable school, the game of cricket, several entrepreneurial businesses, and a million other things and people. I believe we all will savor our last days in this remarkable country.