To eat, or not to eat; that is the question?
November 29th, 2009
One of my favorite aspects of travel is sampling the local fare, and I’ve never been more excited than for my next big culinary destination: India. This trip poses some new risks for me as a traveler however, and it reflects a common perception of international travel, particularly while in India. We’ve even been warned by our instructor and trip leader, who is Indian, that we should probably not eat from street vendors due to the inherent risks posed to our American stomachs.
India is famous for it’s very flavorful, frequently spicy curries. And just as many people who have lived in virtually any large metropolitan area in America know, some of the best food you can find are from small street vendors. But the sanitary standards in India are very different than what most are accustomed to in America.
One of the meals popularized to many Americans is the vada pav, thanks to foodie/chef/traveler Anthony Bourdain (Click Here). This is a spicy potato patty between two buttered buns, smothered in curry sauce. Patties are pressed by hand, meals are prepared by hand, and with hands that may not look to have been washed in some time. And even if they have been recently washed, water that is used threatens us with similar results of water in Mexico. Our American stomachs aren’t accustomed to that water, and while it may be safe for locals, it probably would upset our fragile gastrointestinal systems.
Many travelers either do get sick, or perceive that they may get sick, and so things are changing, purely out of sheer Indian entrepreneurial spirit. There are now chains opening up that attempt to mimic the taste of the street vended snack, with the sanitary conditions that are closer to what Americans expect, for a price that is above street vendors prices but low enough to ensure people still purchase.
This example is just one small microcosm of how India is transforming itself. Preserving the feel, taste, and experience that is India, repackaged and presented in a way that attracts foreigner travelers albeit at a higher price.
But what are the side effects of doing this? Does this type of business model follow the sometimes negative, traditionally American view point that everything can (some say should) be capitalized; in effect, stomping out the mom-and-pop or local feel in favor of a generic, standardized, but safe product? Or is it a good first step in the direction of increasing the sanitary conditions of India? After all, who cares what the motivations are, if the result benefits everyone.
-Chase Janvrin
Entry Filed under: 2010 Student Blogs, India, Misc.
10 Comments Add your own
1. Lindsay Leaver | November 29th, 2009 at 5:57 pm
I’m with you… eating is one of my favorite parts of traveling, if not my absolute favorite. And more so, the street food in particular. It gives you a feel for the local spices and flavors, all the while being nice to the pocket book. I still remember many of the street food meals I have had while traveling, they have been some of the best.
Part of becoming a tourist destination is ensuring that your guests will be able to eat without getting sick. Stomach problems while traveling are the fastest way to ruin your trip. I can’t believe I am writing this because I am usually so against standardization and generic products. However, safe and more expensive street food is a sure fire way to make sure that people can enjoy the flavors of the place they are traveling to and enjoy the scenery of the place they are traveling to, instead of enjoying the hotel room bathroom of the place they are traveling to. Maybe it does affect the cultural mom-and-pop feel, however without it tourism won’t thrive. Tourism creates a ton of revenue and can help increase the GDP. Most other tourist destinations have done the same thing with their food.
Hopefully, offering some sort of clean, standardized street food doesn’t mean that traditional street food will disappear. Locals will still eat at traditional places, and visitors who are feeling adventurous can too. But creating a middle ground seems like a good step towards sanitation and a good place for entrepreneurs to create a niche market.
2. Erika Bylund | November 29th, 2009 at 6:41 pm
Just reading your blog made me hungry! I am of the opinion that if you really want to get to know a country, you have to take some risks and try the food. There’s no better way to get a feel for international cuisine than diving into “street foods.” So for the adventurous tourist, it may be difficult to resist the temptations to stop at the curbside vendor and whet the palate. However, who doesn’t like options? Although I consider myself pretty adventurous, I can guarantee you that, despite the fact that I have guts of steel, knowing about the difficulty in finding “American-friendly” restrooms in India will definitely be a deal-breaker for me when it comes to trying “street foods.” I am grateful to know that I won’t have to entirely miss out on the authentic Indian food experience with the more sanitary, yet commercialized, options available.
I don’t believe that the “mom-and-pop” street vendors will ever lose their place in India’s restaurant industry as long as there are millions of local Indians needing lunch. After all, I prefer to get my Santa Maria Style BBQ from a parking lot vendor rather than a restaurant, and I’m sure that the local Indians feel the same way about their favorite dishes. And while I think some could make a compelling argument about a loss of authenticity with the emerging commercial “street food” vendors, I think that such an occurrence is illustrative of India’s well-known ability to adapt to the needs and demands of a changing world.
3. Jay Ponto | November 29th, 2009 at 9:34 pm
For travelers who have been warned against eating food from the local vendors, this will definitely hinder business. For me too, eating the local food in foreign destinations is a must. However, I do not think eating the local food is worth the chance of catching a disease in a foreign country on such a demanding venture. Thus, if I can get similar food for a slightly elevated price, accompanied by the assurance that my food has been prepared in sanitary conditions, I will undoubtedly choose this establishment over the street vendors.
I believe it is now up to the “mom-and-pop” vendors to ensure their product is safe, has been prepared in a sanitary environment, and somehow advertise this to the consumer in a convincing fashion. If they can achieve a level of hygiene acceptable to tourists, then the vendors should be fine. Otherwise, they’ll either need to shift their market to only the local population or go out of business… OR they could determine what standards their high-value consumers (tourists) versus low-value consumers (locals) desire, and price discriminate for differences in how the same foods are supplied!!! (Dr. Zambrano would be proud)
Overall, I think the market’s increased demand for sanitation will raise the hygienic quality of food in India.
Does everyone else have the same mentality on this choice, or is anyone debating the risk? Any comments on my managerial economics-based predictions?
4. Catherine Kristensen | November 30th, 2009 at 4:49 pm
Erika is right - reading your blog post made me hungry. And reading the full NY Times Anthony Bourdain article made me even hungrier!
Chase, you are right, too - staying away from the water is one way to help to prevent the “Montezuma’s Revenge” type stomach bug that is often caught in Mexico. I did a little Google research and found that the term in India we will likely become familiar with is “Delhi Belly” - that is such a clever name, I wish I came up with it myself!
I think that these new fast-food type restaurants are a great way to let us tourists sample a “cleaner” fare that our more timid stomachs can handle. The locals will likely still take the more adventurous (and cheaper!) approach. I think there is a way that both types of vendors can harmoniously stay in business in India’s growing economy.
We all know that the mature decision is to NOT eat on the streets … but, I sometimes wonder how much of the stomach troubles we face while traveling are actually bacterially linked … and how much of it is in our heads or linked to other things?
Travel can be stressful, and stress can cause serious digestive issues. Look at the typical jetlag/first day of travel - you lose some sleep after a day of flying, drink some strong coffee to get going in the AM, have some really spicy food, and maybe drink a few too many beers. That sounds like a day of indigestion in the making! I am not saying that we should just go for it and eat on the streets, but we should be realistic and acknowledge that even when you are careful you can get sick. Foreign spices, exhaustion, dehydration = these things can all add up and lead the most careful person to even get sick. All we can do is strive to be lucky! And pack Immodium AD!
5. Matthew Perez | November 30th, 2009 at 6:28 pm
As someone who thoroughly enjoys cooking, I am well aware of the issues that can arise from preparing food foreign to an American palate. Even those with some exposure to the foreign dishes can still be overwhelmed after trying an authentic version of a familiar food. An example of this I am very familiar with is in my preparation of Mexican food. Although most people I have met have tried it before, many of my friends who have had my traditional Mexican dished have had issues eating it. This is primarily due to my extensive use of stronger seasonings and peppers than our common in most Americanized Mexican dishes. Because of this, I make a less flavorful version of the dish when cooking for others. However, since my friends and family greatly enjoy the milder dish, I make the milder version far more often than the traditional one.
This story is meant to illustrate the fact that it is beneficial for India to have vendors with food tolerable for tourists. Although there might be a loss of some traditional flavors, the ability to appeal to a broader range of individuals is essential for Indian businesses to thrive beyond their own borders.
6. Phil Hamer | November 30th, 2009 at 11:07 pm
While I don’t necessarily consider myself risk neutral, I for one will be eating (some) street food. My reason is there is nothing that would persuade me to believe that the poor cook in the back of the “sanitary” restaurant is using any purer ingredients or has any better hand hygiene than the poor cook on the street.
In my travels in developing (and developed) countries and subsequent use of public restrooms in those countries, I’ve seen many a man come out of a smelly bathroom stall wearing a chef hat and bypassing the sink. I’m convinced the only way to guarantee a completely safe meal in India would be to pack PB&J, but since Indian food is THE most delicious food in the world, anyone who does this would be seriously missing out.
So far in my travels I have not gotten sick eating street food (knock on wood) even on a daily basis. In some ways I think that street food can actually be safer. Think about it, you actually get to see the food being prepared in front of you and you can give direct specific instructions to your chef. Not only that, there’s just something about 10 year-old recycled grease that makes food taste divine, and as long as it pleases the palette, the mom-and-pop food stalls will live on.
That being said, I will stay away from the water, only eat piping hot food, go to the stalls with people lined up, and keep a silent prayer in my heart.
7. Tim Lynds | December 1st, 2009 at 6:35 pm
I am curious about what types of diseases you can actually get from unsanitary food preparation and handling. Does anyone know what the number one health problem food causes tourists in India? The answer to this may influence my decision on whether or not I eat food from street vendors when we are abroad.
Also, I am skeptical on how much more unsanitary street vendor food in India is compared to street vendor food in the US. Do you think a hand pressed and prepared street vendor vada pav meal in India has a greater risk of contamination than a hand pressed and prepared tamale from a street vendor in L.A.? I for one tend to think the two meals may be equally sanitary, albeit our digestive systems are probably better equipped to handle the “bugs” that may be in the tamale meal.
With that said, I could really go for a chicken tamale and an ear of corn smothered in mayo and parmesan.
8. Jason Silver | December 2nd, 2009 at 6:21 pm
To answer Tim’s question, it seems that the most prevalent food borne illnesses in India are diarrhea, dysentery, and cholera. We all know what diarrhea is, and it’s a symptom of the following two illnesses. Dysentery is the inflammation of the intestines that could be potentially fatal if left untreated. Cholera is an infection of the gastrointestinal system, attacking the stomach and small intestine. Cholera can also be deadly if left untreated, but prompt re-hydration treatment and restoration of electrolytes is the common treatment.
Enough with the doom and gloom, I want to focus on the joys of eating abroad. This trip will offer an amazing opportunity to become familiar with cuisines that have been around for centuries. I personally love food, and relish (no pun intended) the occasions to eat new and exciting fare. Indian food has normally not been part of my diet, but I think that is about to change. My introduction to Indian food at the few restaurants here in San Luis Obispo has made me a fan.
Throughout my travels, I have made it mandatory to eat street vendor food, in order to feel more like a local. My vendor experiences have only strengthened my wish to consume the food in India. With all the discussion about food borne illnesses, I feel it is important to take every precaution on my end to ensure my food safety, even if that means passing on one sub-par vendor to look for a cleaner vendor option. With that said, I cannot wait to get to India and experience its culinary history and deliciousness.
9. Vitus Holzner | December 6th, 2009 at 11:43 pm
Okay I admit it; I am the worst chicken when it comes to eating in foreign countries! And frankly I am terrified by the thought of catching some food borne illness and possibly face treatment in an Indian hospital. However, I absolutely love Indian food!!! And I am even more scared to miss out on a great “taste experience” if I wouldn’t try some “real stuff”! Besides that I have to say that I have a hard time believing anything an Indian street cook prepares could be any more poisonous than what the US food industry shoves down our throat on a daily basis!
So here is my plan: I’m going to build up resistance the first few days. I will gradually move from “safe” hotel food to “more dangerous” food sources. I will then graduate the College of Steely Guts just one day before we leave, by buying lunch at one of those infamous street vendors. My hope is that, (just in case I did indeed bet on the wrong horse figuratively speaking) the incubation time of whatever I might have caught is long enough for me to make it back to US soil.
10. Frederick Peemoeller | March 12th, 2010 at 2:58 pm
I don’t think the street vendors lose out on this new venture at all. Let’s face it. I will say there is a 90% chance of getting sick after eating from a street vendor. It doesn’t matter how long they cook the meat or how much tequila or alcohol you drink afterwards to kill the bacteria, that bug will fester in your stomach and wreak havoc. After eating at a street vendor once, you physically and mentally cannot do it again. With that said, the vendors do not profit from foreign tourism because they simply cannot eat the food. I was in central america for four months and always tried to build an immunity to the food, and it was simply Russian Roulette. Sometimes I would make it out of the most unsanitary places unscathed and other times I would be in the bathroom for a couple days. No American stomach will be able to resist the fiery and spicy bacteria of India’s street vendors. Tasty foods can be found elsewhere.
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